Morewenstow to Bude 7

After the best night's sleep in the purple room in a lovely comfy bed and a lovely breakfast we re-traced the mile back to the coast path.

The first thing we came across was Hawker's Hut built by a the vicar of Morewenstow from the timbers of a shipwrecked boat.

 There were still several ups and downs to get over before the edge of Bude came into view and both my knees were complaining by this time.

Thankfully it was a short walk today and we had plenty of time so I didn't have to go too fast and Margaret was good at coaxing me over the last few hills.
About 1 mile out from the centre of Bude we found 'Margaret's Rustic Tea Room' with a lovely lady serving refreshments from a caravan. It was very popular and the garden was full of small seats and things to keep children occupied.

At Crooklets beach we left the coastal path behind and turned inland to find Margaret's B&B for the night where my suitcase awaited me. It was good to say farewell to the boots that Margaret kindly took home for me.
All I had to do now was get to Plymouth on the bus, travel to Par on the train and catch a bus to Fowey where I spent the next two weeks with friends on a proper holiday.
We intend to come back next year to walk from Bude to Land's End so watch this space.

Hartland Quay to Morewenstow 8

Another day and better weather thankfully so we were able to appreciate the wonderful views.

 At last Margaret got a decent photo of Lundy Island, she had been trying for days!

She also managed to capture a wave.

It would have been nice to stay another day and see a magnificent sunset but we had to press on and set off at 9.45a.m. to Morewenstow. My knee was a bit stiff and there were plenty of ups and downs today but the scenery was magnificent.

 Waterfall at Speke's Mill Mouth

 And now for the best bit, North Devon is done and we enter Cornwall.

The path didn't change much though and there were still plenty of undulations but it wasn't too long before we turned off for Morewenstow and the Rectory Tea Rooms. Margaret is very good at leading walks and she is also good at finding tea rooms. She had been looking forward to this one ever since we planned the walk and it didn't disappoint. 

All we had to do then was find Cornakay Farm which was trickier than it looked on the map.

 This was a lovely place to stay and our room had a window overlooking the coast and we were rewarded with a lovely sunset.

A fine end to the day.

Clovelly to Hartland Quay 10.5

It was rubbish collection day in Clovelly today and everything has to be taken down hill on sleds and then taken by land rover from the back of the pub.

Before we left Clovelly we went looking for donkeys that used to pull the sleds up and down but are now only a tourist attraction.

 The donkeys were having their breakfast and the mist started to come down as we set off through the woods past the Angels Wings shelter.

At Mouthmill Beach we spent some time taking photos of Blackchurch Rock which was quite difficult to get to walking on the slippery stones.

After this the weather closed in and the radar station that we should have been able to see from miles away was just about visible from the path.

There was a tea shack shortly after this and surprise surprise it was open so of course we had to have a cuppa. Needless to say there was nobody else around.

We never did see the lighthouse, and towards the end I could barely see Margaret in front of me.
We were staying at the Hartland Quay hotel which is in a spectacular position but today there wasn't much to be seen. This was the most expensive place we stayed and the only place that hadn't taken our bags to our room for us! At least we didn't have to go looking for a meal as the bar meals were very good and it is a popular spot for viewing the sunset apparently. Not for us though.

Westward Ho! to Clovelly 11

Westward Ho! is the only town in England with an exclamation mark after its name and the only one to be named after a novel. It was built as a holiday resort in 1864. It is not particularly photogenic but the views as you leave it behind are good.
The path was quite flat to begin with along another old converted railway track and there were several school parties having a day out.

                                   You can just see the Saunton Sands Hotel in the far distance.

Looking forwards to Clovelly and Hartland Quay 

It was hot today and my knee was still giving me problems so although there weren't any major climbs there were plenty of smaller ups and downs before a short stop at Buck's Mill for a drink and then more ups and downs through the woods up on to the Hobby Drive, a wide and flat tree shaded track that winds its way around the head of the coombes all the way to Clovelly. Just as we reached here we met a couple going the other way who said they were going to Westward Ho! and were there any pubs on the way! I hope they had a torch with them as I don't think they were very well prepared for what was ahead of them.

 First view of Clovelly from the Hobby Drive.

 We stayed at Donkey Shoe Cottage about half way down the hill on the left hand side. After checking in we went down to the harbour and had a meal sitting outside the Red Lion.

A lovely place to stay. Clovelly is privately owned and if you come by car you have to pay, currently £6.95 per adult. As we walked there we arrived below the visitor centre and didn't have to pay anything. It was great staying in one of the old cottages.

Instow to Westward Ho! 11

Back on the Tarka trail this morning after catching the bus back to Instow but only as far as Bideford. Before leaving the trail we had a cup of tea at a railway carriage cafe at East-the-Water.

 Bideford Long Bridge is one of the longest medieval bridges in England with 24 arches.

We had some useful footsteps to follow as we made our way through Bideford towards Appledore.

Appledore is a lovely Devon village with narrow streets and colourful houses.
Now apart from a couple of blisters my legs and feet had held up quite well through all the many ups and downs of the coastal path but on this flat walk my left knee decided it had had enough for now and started to give me problems as we left Appledore.
We cut across the beach at the end of the town and across to the Northern Burrows Country Park. At this point you are only 900 yards from Braunton Burrows having walked about 25 miles to get here!

View of Instow from Appledore

Looking across to Braunton Burrows

The Northern Burrows is an interesting area in the dunes protected by a pebble ridge. After a visit to the visitor centre and an ice lolly at the ice cream van we were soon into Westward Ho! and nicely timed for a bus back to Braunton that was now beginning to feel like home.
Margaret had a good idea to break our journey and have a look round Bideford and get something to eat there. As luck would have it the first place we spotted was Wetherspoons so we had another go at Mexican Monday. It seemed a long time since last Monday in Minehead and many miles had been travelled since then.
It was still lovely weather so after our meal and a bit of shopping in the Co-op we had time to sit on the river side for a while in the sun, people watching before catching the bus to Braunton and packing up to move on tomorrow.

Braunton to Instow 12.5

The next two days were almost completely flat which made a pleasant change from all those coombes. There was also a decent bus service around the estuary which is why we based ourselves in Braunton for three nights. Plenty of time to sort out the suitcase!

Almost the whole of today's walk was on the Tarka Trail, and it made a change to have views over the estuary and no cliff tops. This is an old railway line to Barnstaple that has been converted for use by walkers and cyclists. There weren't too many cyclists about fortunately.
It passes near the Royal Marines training base at Chivenor before the views opened up across the estuary.

 The tide was out this morning.

The Taw Bridge at Barnstaple

 We crossed over this bridge and then down the opposite side of the river.

We were still on the Tarka Trail which was getting a bit busier now and Fremington Quay was a very popular place to stop.

Home Farm marsh nature reserve

We had had enough of the Tarka Trail by now so took the slightly longer route around Instow Barton marsh and then along the dunes into Instow with its views of Appledore across the River Torridge.

Instow was busy as the day was warm and sunny. Just time for a cup of tea and an ice cream before catching the bus back to Braunton for fish and chips at the famous Squires fish and chip restaurant. Well it was good enough for John Major, Rick Stein and Damien Hirst so we had to give it a go!